Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Making Natural Perfumes

Who wouldn't like having their own personal scent??  You can create your very own signature scent with essential oils.

Things you need to know before attempting to make your own:

Perfumes consist primarily of Top, Middle, and Base "notes" 

Base notes are notes we think of as "heavy" such as Patchouli, Vetiver, Sandalwood,Frankincense, Oakmoss,  notes that linger the longest.

Top notes evaporate quickly.  These are first notes you smell and they quickly dissipate or evaporate.

Middle Notes create the main body of the blend. These notes account for 50 - 80% of the blend, and their scent unfolds from a few moments to 3 hours after initial application.

Types of Perfumes/What's your pleasure?
Florals, Oriental, Chrypre, Green, Fougere, Citrus
Depending on what you like; will determine what oils you use.
Florals:  Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Neroli
Orientals:  Cinnamon, Frankincense, Patchouli, Vanilla
Chypre:  Resins, Citrus, Woods; Oakmoss, Bergamot, Sandalwood
Green:  Lavender, Pine, Mint
Fourgere:  Lavender, Oakmoss, tonka Bean
Citrus:  Citrus fruit,petit grain, neroli(orange blossom), bergamot, lemon eucalyptus, lemon thyme

Oils with high odor intensity include Patchouli, Clary Sage, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Peppermint.  Keep in mind that all blends change over time depending on how long the blend has aged and will smell different in the bottle than on the skin.

If you want to be safe, choose a middle note that can also be regarded as a a base note.  Finish the blend with at least one top note.  

You can also start with an oil that already has a complex chemistry and tends to already smell like a blend. Such as geranium..expand your scent by adding small amounts(1 drop at a time) to geranium oil.
You can also choose oils that that are similar to each other such as lemon & bergamot, spearmint & peppermint, neroli & rose.

As a beginning blender I would use a small glass roll on bottle or a small amber glass bottle to create the blend in.  You will be adding a carrier oil to the blend as applying essential oils "neat"(undiluted) is not recommended as skin reactions can occur.  For a carrier oil, unscented almond oil, vitamin e oil, or sunflower oil will work well.  Put the essential oils in one drop at a time, first. Test smell your blend as you go along.  For a 1/3 oz roll on bottle or small amber bottle, rule of thumb is to use no more than 10 drops total of essential oils, the balance is carrier oil.  If you find after applying the oil that it's not quite to your liking, don't be afraid to add another drop or two of what you think it may be lacking.  Keep in mind that the longer the blend sits and ages the stronger the scent will be.  You can always blend just the essential oils, and put aside to age in a dark cupboard.  You can add the carrier oil to it when you think it has the scent you like.  Up to you.  

Here are some suggested blends, but please feel free to experiment!

sweet orange Oil with geranium and lavender, and sandalwood.
Juniper, cedarwood, frankincense and jasmine
rose, jasmine, grapefruit, and ylang ylang.

You can find essential oils on line or at your local health food store or Whole Foods, or Sprouts store.  I get most of my essential oils locally from Sprouts, or on line from New Directions Aromatics.

Some health food stores also have flower hydrosols(diluted scents with water) if you want to try adding a flower essence.  It is very common to use a dilution or hydrosol of rose oil.  Rose oil cost is prohibitive.  Extremely expensive as it takes thousands and thousands of rose petals to make a tiny amount of rose essential oil.

One of my own favorite FRESH Green Blends:
Freesia Flower, Cucumber, & Lemon...

Another one of my own favorite essential oils blends I call Warm Earth; Rosemary, Lemon, Patchouli, & Vanilla.

It is okay to experiment with fragrant oils a well, just know that fragrance oils are synthetics, not essential oils.  Most modern perfumes are made with these synthetics.
These blends were made with a base of Frankincense and Myrrh, with added notes of Rose, Neroli, or Gardenia.  At request of a customer.
Very fragrant, sweet, and unusual.  I created 3 separate blends for her to choose from as her favorite.